By Martha Hyams
Two hundred and eighty six years after the Pilgrims landed in Provincetown, Massachusetts a bill was passed in Congress and signed by President Theodore Roosevelt. The bill approved the construction of a monument to commemorate the landing of the Mayflower in Provincetown November 21, 1620. The people of Provincetown were overcome with joy that at last their town would be recognized as the first home of the Pilgrims.
Today, as you drive or bike toward Provincetown on 6A from North Truro you will come to the peak of a hill and have a view of Cape Cod Bay, Provincetown and the Monument. It’s a spot that always makes me stop and think about the Pilgrims, Provincetown and the rich history held by that little town.
One of the first things the Pilgrims did, even before leaving the Mayflower, was draw up the Mayflower Compact on November 21st, thus establishing the first set of written laws in the New World and setting a precedent for free people to establish a government of their choice. The Pilgrims, or Puritans, came because they could worship freely in the New World. We like to think that Provincetown is still a Mecca for respect, tolerance and freedom.
It’s impossible to be a visitor in Provincetown without constantly being reminded of its history and traditions.
This year the Pilgrim Monument will celebrate its centennial. On August 20th, 1907 President Theodore Roosevelt arrived in Provincetown via his yacht the “Mayflower.” He attended the laying of the cornerstone of the monument. At two hundred and fifty two feet, the Monument is the tallest granite building in the United States. It has one hundred and sixteen steps and sixty ramps. When and if you reach the top you will have an absolutely spectacular view of Provincetown’s harbor. On a perfectly clear day the view can extend to Boston and the Bridges. At the foot of the monument is the Provincetown Museum, which has maritime items, natural history, and of course Provincetown and Cape Cod exhibits. It also has information and displays of the findings of arctic explorer Donald MacMillan. During the 2007 season there will be an exhibit entitled “Centennial Selection of Treasures from the Collection of the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.” The Fine Arts Work Center in Provincetown will also host a special exhibit in honor of the Centennial. Juried entries will be on display from July 20th through August 7th.
Originally, Provincetown’s strength was its very rich and abundant fishing resources. There is convincing evidence that even before 1492 fishermen from the Basque region of Europe were coming here due to the abundance of fish. In the following years many more European fishing fleets came here and returned home with their plentiful catch. Although currently the fishing industry in Provincetown is encountering hardships such as regulations regarding the amount of fishing allowed plus the dwindling amount of some fish, especially cod and flounder, many boats go out every day and activities still flourish around fishing.
Beginning with Cape Verdeans, Portuguese fishermen began to come to Provincetown in the late nineteenth century to participate in the whaling industry as well as the profitable fishing industry. Many of the restaurants serve Portuguese dishes as a regular item. Favorites are kale soup, fried fish known as vinha d’alhos, Portuguese seafood stew and clams stuffed with potatoes and linguica to name only a few. Do not miss the Portuguese Bakery on Commercial Street.
Provincetown will have a Portuguese Festival from June 21st through June 24th this year. The Festival begins with the Blessing of the Fleet and is a real celebration of the Portuguese culture. There will be music, dancing in the street, exhibits, games, crafts and a parade.
If you like to fish, or even if you have never been fishing, it’s fun to join a group fishing boat or hire a private charter fishing boat for half a day. Fishing gear and bait is provided and your guides know the best places to go. They will help you reel those fish in if you need help, and leave you alone if you don’t. You will probably catch enough fish for dinner and the best part is the guides will clean them.
The abundance of whales provided a very profitable industry. Whales were harvested for their oil, food, blubber and bone. By the late 1800s the whaling industry began to decline due to the rapidly diminishing number of whales. Today we are involved in protection and conservation of whales. Whale watching is a very popular activity for visitors and even residents, of Provincetown. In fact, Provincetown is one of the ten best places in the country to watch whales. You are pretty much guaranteed to see whales when you go out on one of these trips. The whale watching boats provide a naturalist on each trip to explain the different kinds of whales you might see, the habits of whales, and the history of whaling on the Cape. During these trips the whales will come very close to the boat, even at times brush up against it. Environmentalists have objected to whale watching for this reason. The whales come so close that they are sometimes hurt by the boat , also visitors change the habits and hunting grounds of the whales. Whale watching trips leave from MacMillan Pier where parking is available. It’s a good idea to make reservations for your trip.
The first miscreant rascal reputation for which Provincetown is so justly famous probably occurred around 1680, with the settlement of fishermen and their shacks, which had been built on the dunes. In addition to fishermen, smugglers, outlaws and serious drinkers made the dunes their home. Villains, known as Mooncussers, took advantage of the darkness of Race Point and placed lighted lanterns on the beach in order to lure ships to come in. The ships would then be stuck on the sandbars where the mooncussers sometimes murdered the crew as well as taking the loot, often very valuable.
View from a dune shack at Peaked Hill.
Until 1914 and the construction of the Cape Cod Canal, there were innumerable shipwrecks between Boston and points south. The “race”, or strong current at Race Point was responsible for these catastrophes. A lighthouse was obviously needed and was finally built in 1816. The light was insufficient; the lighthouse was leaky and had no foundation. Improvements were made in 1852, when a fog bell was installed, and shortly after that a fourth order Fresnel lens replaced the light. Improvements in the building and the light continued to be made and finally, in 1957 electric light was put in. Three lighthouse keepers lived in two keepers’ houses. Today there is one keeper’s house. As of 1972 the lighthouse became completely automated. If you wish to experience a bit of history, you may arrange to stay in the lighthouse. It is available from May 1 through the middle of October. Reservations may be made by calling 508-487-9930. You may park at Race Point Beach. It’s a two and a half mile walk out to the lighthouse.
Artists began coming to Provincetown in the very late 19th century. Charles W. Hawthorne was one of the first. He established the Cape Cod School of Art. Many famous artists followed, including Edward Hopper, Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, Hans Hofmann and Henry Hensche. Many writers such as Stanley Kunitz, Eugene O’Neill, Mary Heaton Vorse, Mary Oliver, Susan Glaspell and of course Harry Kemp, our own poet of the dunes have been equally attracted to this beautiful city of magnificent luminescence and sunsets of dark blue, red, rose, orange and pink. Some of these artists have spent time in dune shacks. Provincetown is still well known as a home for artists. The same inspiration that brought them here in the past brings them here and keeps them here now. The Life Saving Service built the shacks in the late 19th century to house seamen. They are isolated, surrounded by beach grass, the perfect place for an artist to be alone, completely without distraction. The shacks are without such conveniences as running water or toilets.
The best way to get the true feeling of life in the dunes is to take a dune ride out to the Province Lands. You can find the dune buggies on Standish Street. You may be lucky and able to get on the next ride or you may need a reservation. The ride is fun, beautiful and informative. You will see native plants and animals of the dunes. Along the way your driver will explain the ecology of the dunes as well as the history of the dune shacks.
The great influx of artists and writers initiated the Provincetown Art Association as well as the Provincetown Theater. The Provincetown Art Association and Museum was founded in 1914. Both artists and members of the business community were involved in the organization. The Art Association rapidly became a vital force in the community, involved in local matters as well as major exhibitions and it remains so today. Be sure to visit their handsome new building at 460 Commercial Street. Enjoy the exhibits and the gift shop.
In 1914, the same year that the Provincetown Art Association was founded, Mabel Dodge and Jack Reed came to town. Jack Reed later became a force in the establishment of the Provincetown Players. Plays began to be performed in living rooms in the East End and later in a fish house on the Wharf. In 1916 they moved to New York City, then back to Provincetown where they moved and changed names several times. In 1963 the Provincetown Theater Company was founded, followed by the Provincetown Repertory Theater. They combined in 2006, are called the Provincetown Players and have a new home on Bradford Street. Check out their schedule for a wonderful night at the theater.
Captian Jack's Wharf is loved for its ramshackle charm.
There is much more to see in Provincetown but I hope these suggestions will allow you to see this beautiful town through some of the major threads of its history.